lunes, octubre 04, 2010

El Exilio Babilónico En Lanvin


No lo comprendo. En cuanto he visto la colección de Alber Elbaz para Lanvin me ha parecido que me transportaba al desierto, a ropas de refugiados y al exilio. Se nota que Elbaz es israelí, a veces, por esos tonos tierra de Israel, por esa disciplina militar que a veces impera en sus cortes. Son soldados, aunque sean mujeres, y tienen obligaciones. Muchas obligaciones.

Se le ha echado en cara a Elbaz que su trabajo es demasiado cursi. Las parisinas a las que canta sus odas a veces se pasan el día entre demasiados pétalos, entre demasiados tés, entre demasiado frufrú y demasiado satén para fiestas por la noche. No obstante, Elbaz siempre ha tenido algo de radical. No es su mejor desfile, de hecho, Lanvin ya está situada en una hermosa decadencia, hermosa pero decadencia, que ya no es la imaginación del que ideaba trampantojos en púrpura con collares de piedras rojos y vestidos de seda plisada por encima de la rodilla. Ya no es -siempre hay sorpresas gratas, como su última colección de mujeres fuertes y decididas- la nueva sensación de vestidos livianos y hadas magníficas. No es una colección memorable pero, se distancia de lo cursi. De lo fino. Fino. Fino. Y de lo afectado.

Elbaz continúa su último desfile. Pero ya no se trata de defender París de los alemanes. Ya no se trata de los nazis. Ya no se trata de no dejar quemar a la Gioconda, de no ver fundida la Torre Eiffel. Ahora se trata de otras guerreras. De otras soldados voluntarias. Ahora se trata de otra cosa.


A Elbaz le gusta la multiculturalidad. Siempre tuvo modelos negras, incluso en sus publicidades, y en sus creaciones homenajeaba tanto a la mujer sofisticada capitalista como al concepto estético de la India lleno de collares de oro, de pulseras y de ritmo frenético producido por el baile, e, incluso, en los pliegues y el vuelo de los derviches.


Se trata de la nación de Israel. Con sus tonos tierra. La piel curtida por el sol. La arena ardiente, del desierto, bajo los pies. El velo cubriendo el rostro. El negro riguroso de los judíos hassidim que se desplazan, solemnes, al muro de las lamentaciones y respetan, rigurosamente, la observancia de la ley, tolerando pero con marcado recelo a, por ejemplo, la educación universitaria.

Siempre hay campos de batalla en Israel. De hecho, los judíos lo son desde el exilio babilónico, cuando fueron y regresaron tiñiendo sus ojos, su mirada, sus ropas, sus pertenencias y su historia de la arena del desierto, del pardo del viento azotándole a uno. De todas esas cosas...


Y, parece que a Elbaz también le gusta que su tierra le acompañe. Colores de Israel. De jornadas de sol a sol. De limones palestinos. De ladrillos. Del Sabbat. De la puesta del sol. De la oración. Del muro derruido, del templo arrasado. Verde oliva del monte de los Olivos y agua del Siloé. Oro del arca de la Alianza, del becerro dorado y cebado. Ingenio de David, sellos de Salomón y convivencia.

Convivencia en la guerra.
Pero convivencia.
Ay.

11 comentarios:

Gratis total dijo...

adoro israel! esos colores!

Mqr dijo...

gracias por el post! no habia visto nada

bsss

Holly Golightly dijo...

Raquel. Yo también. Un beso

Mqr. Nada. Para eso estamos. Un beso

Sugar B. K. dijo...

Muy bien escrito! me ha gustado mucho leerlo, es verdad que se aprecian los colores tierra, el desierto...
Yo tuve la oportunidad ayer de asistir al desfile de John Galliano, he posteado la crónica en mi blog, por si te apetece leerla. :)

www.librodeestiloymoda.com

Holly Golightly dijo...

Sugar. Ahora mismo me paso. Un beso

Sr Q dijo...

Esta colección me tiene raruno, me encanta, veo cosas nuevas, muy novedosas en Elbaz, tipo las gasas tan pegadas al cuerpo, y por otra me suena a algo ya visto...

Holly Golightly dijo...

Sr Q. A mí no me gusta especialmente pero me atrae el concepto de "otra primavera" que no es de flores. Un beso

Anónimo dijo...

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